Holiday Bubbly - What's in the sparkle?

Just as we are in the habit to say Kleenex when we want a facial tissue or Band-aid when we want an adhesive bandage, we often use the word Champagne loosely when referring to a sparkling wine. However, the correct term to use for sparkling wine depends on what country the sparkling wine comes from and sometimes the specific region. When in Spain, sparkling wine is referred to as Cava. When in Italy, the term is Spumante with the majority being produced in Prosecco and Asti. In France, the term Champagne is applied only when the sparkling wine is produced in Champagne. When it is made elsewhere in the country, the sparkling wine is called Cremant. In Germany, it is called sekt. In South Africa, it is called Cap Classique. In the United States it is called sparkling wine (we are forbidden to use the generic word Champagne).

In simple terms, sparkling wine is wine with bubbles caused by varying levels of carbon dioxide. How the wine obtains the bubbles or "sparkle" depends on the process. A dry, tart and low alcohol wine is made by fermentation in stainless steel tanks. Next, sugar and yeast are added to start a second fermentation. A by-product of fermentation is carbon dioxide which is released into the air in the first fermentation, but effort is taken to retain the gas in the second fermentation which dissolves in the wine and creates bubbles. The method of the second fermentation varies and that is where we get into the differences between Champagne, Cava, Prosecco, Sekt, etc.

Champagne/Tradition method - second fermentation takes place in the bottle that the sparking wine will be sold in. The sugar and yeast mixture is added to the bottle. A rigorous costly method called riddling is used to get the dead yeast cells in the neck of the bottle to then disgorge them. Then a mixture of wine and sugar is added (called the dosage) depending on sweetness style desired. Then the bottle is corked.

Transfer method - same as traditional method but after disgorgement the sparkling wine is emptied into a tank, the dosage is added and then the sparkling wine is rebottled (less costly)

Charmat/Tank method - second fermentation takes place in a pressurized stainless steel tank and then bottled under pressure in order to keep the carbon dioxide from releasing. The wine is then clarified to remove the dead yeast cells (a much less expensive method).

Carbon injection/Carbonation - does not require a second fermention; rather carbon dioxide is injected into the wine just as with soda pop. Bubbles are usually very large and dissipate quickly. This is the cheapest method.

Dosage/sugar levels in increasing order of sweetness: Brut natural, Extra Brut, Brut, Extra Dry, Dry/Sec, demi-sec, doux.

A review of what you may find on the shelf:

Champagne - comes from the Champagne region in France and is made in the traditional method using Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier grapes. A Blanc de Blanc is made with only white grapes and a Blanc de Noir is made with only red grapes. It is full-bodied with yeasty, toasty flavors and aromas and bright fruit. Vintage Champagne can age for years.
Favorite pick: NV Guy Larmandier Blanc de Blancs Cramant Grand Cru

Cremant d'Alsace - comes from the Alsace region in France and is made in the traditional method. The grapes used are Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Riesling, or Chardonnay. It is an affordable alternative to Champagne.
Favorite pick: Lucien Albrecht Cremant Brut Blanc de Blancs

Cava - produced mainly in the Penedes region in Catalonia, Spain and is made in the traditional method. Macabeo, Parellada, Xarel-lo, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir are the most common grapes. Garnacha and Monastrell are used for rose. Cava is soft with creamy acidity and is bone dry with a gentle, sparky fruit.
Favorite pick: Segura Viudas Cava Brut Reserva

Prosecco - the best are produced in the hillsides of the town of Valdobbiadene or Conegliano in the Veneto region of Italy made in the charmat/tank method. The grape is Prosecco. Some Prosecco's are made in a frizzante or lightly sparkling style. Most are made Brut, Extra Dry, or Dry. They are aromatic and crisp with aromas and flavors of apple, peach, and apricot.
Favorite pick: Cantine Riondo Prosecco Frizzante

American Sparkling Wine - the best are made in Sonoma Valley, California and are made in either the traditional or charmat/tank method. Traditional Champagne grapes are used--Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier.
Favorite pick: Gloria Ferrer Brut

Try a few, compare countries and styles and enjoy the bubbles this holiday season!

What is the difference between Syrah, Shiraz, and Petite Sirah?

Syrah and Shiraz is the same exact grape varietal. Do not feel bad if you thought they were two different grapes. It is a common misunderstanding. Think of them as synonyms just like mom and mother or bike and bicycle. They are one and the same. The reason for the name difference is based on where the grape is grown.

In Australia they refer to the grape as Shiraz. Early Australian documentation uses the spelling “Scyras”. It is thought that Shiraz is a strinization—a made up word by stringing words or accents together. For example, avagoodweegen in Australian means, “Have a good weekend”. Scyras became Shiraz.

In the Rhône Valley of France the grape is referred to as Syrah. The grape is indigenous of France. DNA profiling proved Syrah to be a genetic cross of two obscure varieties, mondeuse blanc (a white grape) and dureza (a red grape). These parents still exist in Southeastern France close to northern Rhône allowing researches to conclude Syrah originated from northern Rhône.

In Australia and in California the grape name, Shiraz or Syrah, will be displayed on the bottle. In France, the regulations do not allow for the grape name to be on the bottle. Instead the name of the appellation (geographical region) is on the label. The only red grape allowed in northern Rhône is Syrah. The appellations are: Côte-Rotie, St. Joseph, Crôzes-Hermitage, Hermitage, and Cornas.


How does a French Syrah differ in flavor profile from an Australian Shiraz? The soil and the climate in which the grape is grown do cause variation in aroma and taste. Syrah/Shiraz requires a warm climate or heat to fully ripen. Because the skin of this grape is thick and dark, the color of the wine in the glass will be very dark red/purple in color.


A Syrah from Northern Rhône is grown on steep, rocky, sunbathed hillsides. The wine has high natural acidity and is powerful, full-bodied, earthy and rich with aromas of pepper, violets, raspberry, and spice. They are harsh in youth but become softer and develop a beautiful bouquet with age. These wines can age for 20+ years.


A Shiraz from Barossa, McLaren Vale, or Coonwarra , Australia is grown in a warmer climate with much higher temperatures resulting in a wine with very ripe fruit and lower acidity. The tannins are softer and there is luscious dark blackberry and black currant fruit with chocolate and spice. The alcohol levels tend to be quite high due to longer ripening.


Petite Sirah is a genetically different grape than Syrah/Shiraz. It is grown in California and DNA testing has proven most plantings are the Durif grape that originated in Rhône, France. It is often blended with Zinfandel. The spelling varies from Petite Syrah to Petit Sirah to Petit Syrah which merely confuses consumers. When vinified it has a deep color, high tannins, and a peppery aroma. It is pleasant, but not usually very distinct on its own. It is best when blended with other grapes.


If I were a food date going out with a Rhone Syrah, I would be a roasted lamb. If I were a food date going out with an Australian Shiraz I would be barbecued ribs.


Syrah and Shiraz are the same grape, but they have different expression and personality like a charming, fashionable French man vs. a rugged, sexy Australian bloke.


Here are a few recommended dinner dates:


Tardieu Laurent Crozes Hermitage Vieilles Vignes 2006 – 100% Syrah from 60 year old vines. Aged in French oak, this wine is elegant with lovely ripe fruit flavors and cassis spice complemented by minerality. It is medium-full bodied with soft tannins. Enjoy this wine with roast chicken, veal shank or beef stew.


R Wines Chris Ringland “CR Ebenezer” Shiraz 2007 – This wine is produced by well-known Aussie winemaker Chris Ringland with grapes sourced from the Barossa sub-region Ebenezer where the soil is a bit leaner and the temperatures slightly cooler. The result is a wine with very ripe hedonistic fruit clothed in some minerality to give it structure. It is a soft, luscious wine with blackberry fruits, vanilla, liqueur, and chocolate. This wine definitely makes a statement. It is a meal.


David Bruce Petite Sirah Central Coast 2006 – The grapes for this wine come from vineyards in Paso Robles and southern Monterey in the Central Coast region of California. It is a medium bodied wine with red and black jammy fruit, black pepper and dusty, firm tannins. It is a versatile, food friendly wine to be enjoyed any night of the week.

Unclouded Chardonnay

2008 Foxglove Chardonnay Central Coast 750ml

"The Central Coast is one of the coolest wine growing regions in California producing pure, clean tropical fruit style Chardonnay’s. This wine is produced by twin brothers, Bob and Jim Varner who make value and premium wines in the Santa Cruz Mountains. This is their entry level Chardonnay that is fermented and aged completely in stainless steel giving the Chardonnay grape an opportunity to shine without the burden of heavy oak. The result is a wine with aromas of pineapple, mango, banana and pear. It has a medium-body and nice lively acidity in the mouth to carry the fruit. "~Mitch Ancona

91 Points - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

"The sensational 2008 Chardonnay Central Coast, which is fermented and aged completely in stainless steel with no malolactic fermentation, is a 30,000-cuvee of fabulous Chardonnay. Loads of tropical fruit, honeysuckle, and orange blossom notes fill the olfactory sense, as does the luscious medium-bodied texture on the palate. The wine is buttressed by crisp underlying acidity, and the result is a fresh, naked expression of Chardonnay that is top-flight. Drink it over the next year or so.

These are absolutely spectacular bargains from the very high-quality Varner Winery in the Santa Cruz Mountains. This is their less expensive line-up of wines, and I encourage readers to try them – they are true winners." more

Classy California Cabernet

2006 Silver Palm Cabernet Sauvignon 750ml

"This California Cabernet is elegant not only what is in the bottle, but also the bottle itself. It will be a gracious compliment to any table this holiday season as it is an artisanal wine made in a quality style to accompany food. The wine consists of primarily Cabernet Sauvignon (89%), but is joined with Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, and Petite Sirah to produce a seductive wine of blackberry, coffee, chocolate, and a hint of cinnamon. These aromas carry over to the palate providing a mouth filling and lavish wine that lingers."~ Monica Mccall, Wine Consultant

"Exhibiting classic varietal character, our 2005 Silver Palm Cabernet Sauvignon boasts a dark, saturated color, lavish black currant, dried cherry, sage, peppercorn and wood smoke aromas, and sumptuous, dark fruit flavors with notes of chocolate, espresso and creamy vanilla from 15 months aging in French and American oak barrels. Its smooth, luxurious finish makes it a perfect partner for grilled and broiled red meats."~(Winemaker's Notes)more