Wednesday, March 28, 2012

Quilceda Creek 2007, 2008, 2009 Vertical



Quilceda Creek 2007, 2008, 2009 Vertical

Although I wish this were a wine review, sadly, it is not. I just wanted to make a quick post to let all of you blog readers know about the incredible offer that has become available online and in the store starting today. It’s a Quilceda Creek Vertical. We’ve got the 2007, 2008, and 2009 vintages bundled together for $574.99.

I usually don’t put a whole lot of stock in critical acclaim but it’s hard to deny that the Wine Advocate scores for these consecutive vintages are anything but impressive. The 2007 received 100 points, the 2008 99 points, and the 2009 99-100 Points.

Not only does this package offer a look into three spectacular vintages from Washington’s finest Cabernet Sauvignon producer, but it is also an obvious opportunity for investment and long-term cellaring. Grab yours while supplies last.

Full details and Critical Acclaim can be found on our website: http://www.anconaswine.com/sku02881.html

$574.99

If you're interested act now, because supply is extremely limited.

UPDATE: Unfortunately, we've just sold out of the 2007 Quilceda Creek which means that we're not able to offer the vertical anymore. The 2008 and 2009 are still available at:
http://www.anconaswine.com/sku01247.html
and
http://www.anconaswine.com/sku02880.html


Monday, March 26, 2012

Wine Review: 2008 Pesquera Crianza


Wine Review: 2008 Pesquera Crianza
By Codey Foster

When it comes to iconic Ribera del Duero producers, there is Vega Sicilia—arguably the greatest producer in all of Spain—and then there is Pesquera, Vega’s triple-oaked 100% Tempranillo little sister that, despite her inherent beauty, has never been as great and will never be as great as her legendary older sister.

In contrast to Vega Sicilia that only produces a Grand Reserva, a NV Grand Reserva Especial, and a second wine—Pesquera makes a full range of wines from its most basic Crianza (that’s the one I’m reviewing here) all the way up to its Grand Reserva “Janus”. 

I say “triple-oaked” (a term I’ve coined all on my own), because Pesquera uses American, French, and Spanish Oak. Why? I don’t know. While the use of Spanish oak isn’t all that uncommon in Ribera del Duero, and neither are French/American combinations, this is the first triple stack I’ve heard of. I’d guess Pesquera would say that three different woods help to impart complexity, balance, and precise oxygenation into the wines. And the 2008 Crianza is indeed complex and balanced—so maybe they’re onto something.

In the glass the 2008 Pesquera shows dense and inky although its hue is much more red than purple.

On the nose it shows signs of funky earth, huge minerality, and dense red and black fruit coinciding among complex aromas of animal, and spice. Punctuation of dill and vanilla well compliment this wine’s rich aromatics—a brilliant framing as the result of its threefold oaking regimen.

On the palate this 2008 Crianza is bold and young. Its fruit is big and refined and its grip tremendous. Every element of structure comes together to build a wine that will live an undoubtedly long and healthy life. It will be thrilling to see what elegance this bottling unfolds over the next 8-12 years.

But don’t get me wrong. This wine is curiously accessible--and what a pleasure to indulge in!

As for pairing this wine, and Pesquera Crianza in general, look to hearty, well-done meats in its youth, and simpler, delicate preparations, as the wine gets older. Right now I think it would do well with a well-grilled NY strip steak with a reduced red/green pepper and onion combination. 5 years from now I might look to a basic salt, pepper, and garlic prepped fillet mignon, and ten years from now, a rosemary/olive oil rubbed pork tenderloin.

As far as purchasing this wine, well, there’s some bad news and some good news here.

The Bad News: I’ve just bought up and reviewed, as it might be, our very last bottle of the 2008 Pesquera Crianza.

The Great News: We’ve got an entire case of the 2009 Pesquera Crianza—a wine that is sure to shine. 2009, it turns out, was an even better vintage than 2008 and will ultimately compete with 2004 for the vintage of the decade in Ribera del Duero.


$39.99

Tuesday, March 20, 2012

Wine Review: 2009 Niner Sauvignon Blanc



Wine Review: 2009 Niner Sauvignon Blanc
By Codey Foster

A year ago I would have told you that there is no such thing as stylistically oaked Sauvignon Blanc. I might have even told you that the best Sauvignon Blanc comes from the South Island of New Zealand. Well, I’ve come a long way since then.

I’ll never be one to call New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc one-dimensional but I will maintain that it is spectacularly distinct and consistent. No other wine has ever given blind tasters (including myself) so much satisfaction and I think there’s something to be said for that. A wine that can shout its name and birthplace bottling after bottling is something admirable all on its own. In any case, as with most facets of my wine drinking, my Sauvignon Blanc interests have turned French. Namely Sancerre and white Bordeaux. Although, I must admit, my Bordeaux Sauvignon infatuation is largely endowed to the body, texture, and dimensionality of Semillon, which after all isn’t Sauvignon Blanc. So for the integrity of Sauvignon Blanc I’m more invested in white Sancerre. I guess what I’m getting at is that Sancerre and the 2009 Niner Sauvignon Blanc share some resilient commonalities even if that’s not what I expected when I first approached this bottle.

As far as winemaking, the Niner Sauvignon Blanc is the offspring of a careful, cool fermentation and precision French oaking. Primary fermentation takes place in stainless steel with half of the wine being finished in new and used French oak barrels. It undergoes a mild Malolactic fermentation and is blended for balance and acidity.

In the glass the 9erSB shows a very subtle lemony gold.

On the nose, melon, lemony citrus notes, vanilla, apple, and pears resonate alongside slight mineral, and a touch of honey.

On the palate the Niner is medium-plus bodied, full-flavored, and balanced. Its roundness is well complemented by a vibrant acidity and this is where its similarities with Sancerre become apparent. So often California wines are malo’ed out of every last drop of acidity and are left tasting flat and dull. The Niner, in contrast, maintains both a creamy body and a brilliant acidity as do my favorite Sancerres. Its fruit is persistent even still, bringing crisp apple, lemon peal, and fresh pineapple into the forefront. This is how white wine should be made.

As for food pairings you’re options are nearly endless. Oak and Malolactic fermentation lend this Sauvignon Blanc to cream-based, richer dishes, however its acidity opens it up a handful of classic Sauvignon Blanc pairings. I know I’d appreciate it with some sashimi—especially fatty tuna, salmon, and squid and octopus.

This bottle was a little reminder as to what I love about white wine.


$19.99

http://www.anconaswine.com/sku01805.html#anchor_moreinfo


Thursday, March 15, 2012

Wine Review: 2003 Harmand-Geoffroy Mazis-Chambertin


Wine Review: 2003 Harmand-Geoffroy Mazis-Chamertin
By Codey Foster

Sometimes I find that the hardest wines to write about are the ones that I have the most mixed feelings about. The 2003 Harmand-Geoffroy Mazis-Chambertin is one of those wines. I guess with a complex bottling like this it’s easy to find entities in the wine that are quite stunning and others that leave you disappointed. That’s the reality of what we call “complexity” I guess—its elements can be both favorable or unfavorable. Although, in this particular wine I didn’t find any flavor components unfavorable, but a little disappointing perhaps.

Secondly, I’d like to stipulate that, in regards to my own personal taste, I find more and more that there are distinct lines between ‘what I like’, ‘what I think is good/well made’, and ‘what makes me think’. And although wines often span the gaps and overlap the space between these three realms—more often than not I’d prefer to drink a wine that makes me think even if I don’t consider it a great wine. A great Burgundy winemaker who’s name escapes me right now once said that while one of his Morey Grand Crus (I want to say it was Clos de la Roche) is constantly igniting animate conversation, a second Grand Cru (Bonnes-Mares, perhaps?) more often brings fourth silence of respectful admiration. Well in this scenario, I’d rather be drinking the Roche.

That said, I’m not sure where this Grand Cru fits in on my personal preference tasting structure, but I have no doubt that it has made me think. 

Before I begin to describe what it tasted like, as I realize is the purpose of this exercise, I just wanted to take note of the nature of Mazis itself. Mazis actually sits just above Clos de Beze (which sits just above Chambertin) on the west side of the RN74. Its wines are generally quite masculine, show quite deep color, and often come up to par with the Clos de Beze. Its wines are generally known to show more black fruit than red and can often develop for up to a couple of decades in the bottle. Harmand-Geoffroy in fact owns more Mazis than any other producer besides Faiveley. 2003 was an especially fine vintage in the Cote de Nuits—showing especially ripe fruit and spectacular concentration.

This particular version of Mazis is showing very developed, and with its brilliant secondary aromas, I think some of the fruit just got up and left. I guess drinking this bottle really made some of my own commentary from “The Romance of Old Wine” fully resonate with me. And although I’d classify this bottle more on the late end of the ‘of age’ drinking spectrum, it was absolutely apparent that some of its primary flavor components had been traded for secondary aromas—a compromise I’m not always willing to make.

In the glass, this Mazis is a deep, concentrated red with some browns filling in at its center and moderate bricking at the perimeter.

On the nose it shows off what I would dare to call well played brettanomyces--a little bit of a Band-Aidy funk that can sometimes be an outright turn off but with good integration can prove to be seductive and complex, as it does in this wine. Along side the brett comes sweet concentrated and almost syrupy aromas of maraschino cherry and subtle sweet spice. Licorice, plumbs, and black cherry fruit make an entrance, almost as an after thought, but I must stress that fruit profile has really taken a backseat in this winemaking effort and it is really developed funk and earth that takes the limelight.

It’s on the palate that this Burgundy shows Grand Cru character bringing fourth fine, fine layers of tannin and an evident structure for at least several more years in the cellar. And while the fruit is unctuous and concentrated, it is again, more reserved and contained than I hoped for it to be at this period of time. Sometimes the fruit felt a little absent on the back palate—which gives me some indication that this particular wine isn’t showing full Mazis potential. Despite its hollow spots, I still find this wine charming. I really like it, just not in the same way that I appreciate great Burgundy or Mazis-Chambertin for that matter.

Not a complete slam-dunk but an experience for sure—definitely worth the trip for any dedicated Burgundy drinker. I’m still trying to wrap my head around it, if that’s any indication to this wine’s depth.


We’ve got it out for 80.
http://www.anconaswine.com/sku01363.html#