Monday, December 28, 2009

Holiday Bubbly - What's in the sparkle?


Just as we are in the habit to say Kleenex when we want a facial tissue or Band-aid when we want an adhesive bandage, we often use the word Champagne loosely when referring to a sparkling wine. However, the correct term to use for sparkling wine depends on what country the sparkling wine comes from and sometimes the specific region. When in Spain, sparkling wine is referred to as Cava. When in Italy, the term is Spumante with the majority being produced in Prosecco and Asti. In France, the term Champagne is applied only when the sparkling wine is produced in Champagne. When it is made elsewhere in the country, the sparkling wine is called Cremant. In Germany, it is called sekt. In South Africa, it is called Cap Classique. In the United States it is called sparkling wine (we are forbidden to use the generic word Champagne).

In simple terms, sparkling wine is wine with bubbles caused by varying levels of carbon dioxide. How the wine obtains the bubbles or "sparkle" depends on the process. A dry, tart and low alcohol wine is made by fermentation in stainless steel tanks. Next, sugar and yeast are added to start a second fermentation. A by-product of fermentation is carbon dioxide which is released into the air in the first fermentation, but effort is taken to retain the gas in the second fermentation which dissolves in the wine and creates bubbles. The method of the second fermentation varies and that is where we get into the differences between Champagne, Cava, Prosecco, Sekt, etc.

Champagne/Tradition method - second fermentation takes place in the bottle that the sparking wine will be sold in. The sugar and yeast mixture is added to the bottle. A rigorous costly method called riddling is used to get the dead yeast cells in the neck of the bottle to then disgorge them. Then a mixture of wine and sugar is added (called the dosage) depending on sweetness style desired. Then the bottle is corked.

Transfer method - same as traditional method but after disgorgement the sparkling wine is emptied into a tank, the dosage is added and then the sparkling wine is rebottled (less costly)

Charmat/Tank method - second fermentation takes place in a pressurized stainless steel tank and then bottled under pressure in order to keep the carbon dioxide from releasing. The wine is then clarified to remove the dead yeast cells (a much less expensive method).

Carbon injection/Carbonation - does not require a second fermention; rather carbon dioxide is injected into the wine just as with soda pop. Bubbles are usually very large and dissipate quickly. This is the cheapest method.

Dosage/sugar levels in increasing order of sweetness: Brut natural, Extra Brut, Brut, Extra Dry, Dry/Sec, demi-sec, doux.

A review of what you may find on the shelf:

Champagne - comes from the Champagne region in France and is made in the traditional method using Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier grapes. A Blanc de Blanc is made with only white grapes and a Blanc de Noir is made with only red grapes. It is full-bodied with yeasty, toasty flavors and aromas and bright fruit. Vintage Champagne can age for years.
Favorite pick: NV Guy Larmandier Blanc de Blancs Cramant Grand Cru

Cremant d'Alsace - comes from the Alsace region in France and is made in the traditional method. The grapes used are Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Riesling, or Chardonnay. It is an affordable alternative to Champagne.
Favorite pick: Lucien Albrecht Cremant Brut Blanc de Blancs

Cava - produced mainly in the Penedes region in Catalonia, Spain and is made in the traditional method. Macabeo, Parellada, Xarel-lo, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir are the most common grapes. Garnacha and Monastrell are used for rose. Cava is soft with creamy acidity and is bone dry with a gentle, sparky fruit.
Favorite pick: Segura Viudas Cava Brut Reserva

Prosecco - the best are produced in the hillsides of the town of Valdobbiadene or Conegliano in the Veneto region of Italy made in the charmat/tank method. The grape is Prosecco. Some Prosecco's are made in a frizzante or lightly sparkling style. Most are made Brut, Extra Dry, or Dry. They are aromatic and crisp with aromas and flavors of apple, peach, and apricot.
Favorite pick: Cantine Riondo Prosecco Frizzante

American Sparkling Wine - the best are made in Sonoma Valley, California and are made in either the traditional or charmat/tank method. Traditional Champagne grapes are used--Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier.
Favorite pick: Gloria Ferrer Brut

Try a few, compare countries and styles and enjoy the bubbles this holiday season!

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