Wine Review: Mas Doix ‘Salanques’ 2006

Wine Review: Mas Doix ‘Salanques’ 2006

By Codey Foster

Someone with much more wit than I once described the experience of Le Musigny as ‘Baby Jesus sliding down the throat in velvet trousers’. Well, if that’s the case—and I will stand by this--then that makes the 2006 Mas Doix ‘Salanques’ the equivalent of Lady Gaga sliding down the throat in velvet stilettos, lacey thigh highs, and a silk half shirt. And believe me, I say that with affection.

To break it down for you, this Priorat is a nicely balanced blend of 65% Garnacha and 15% Cariñena, rounded off with international vinifera swagger (that is, some Syrah, Merlot, and a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon). The Garnacha and Cariñena at the heart of the blend, come from 70-90 year old vines in high altitude slate vineyards. As it turns out Salanques is not a direct declassification of the Mas Doix grand cuvee, as I previously believed, but in fact a wine all of its own. It is cool fermented and sees 14 months in tight grain French oak barrels—a recipe that seems to be working.

In the glass this wine shows appropriately dense and inky. 

On the nose it flaunts luscious dried raisons very reminiscent of fine vintage port. But past the raisons Salanques brings in unique tree fruit qualities including poached plumbs, orange peel, fresh squeezed orange juice (I swear), and apple juice. Now I know these descriptors sound far-fetched and innovative—but as is the concept and execution of Salanques. Past the fruit is every level of complexity that I ever hoped to find in a red wine including earthy/mineral qualities, earthy/gamey qualities, spice, tar, smoke, white and black pepper, chocolate, and a slight floral character that I unfortunately can’t aptly elaborate on any more.

However, it’s not the flavor descriptors of this wine that enamored me most. What enamors me most is its texture and mouth feel. It’s at this moment that I’d like you to reconsider what I said about Gaga. Imagine sexy full palate grip layered on with perfect proportions of velvet, lace, and silk—a cerebral experience that brings on just as much pleasure as the flavors themselves. In combination, flavor and texture marry to create a wine that is rich, incredibly layered, and decadent. This is a wine both of structure and grace. I’d imagine that it will show elegantly for at least another decade but with this kind of wine, there is really no reason to find out. Drink now because the drinking’s good.

As for pairings, bare one thing in mind: this wine rings in at a healthy 15% ABV, and it carries it well, but cracked black pepper, paprika, or any other zesty spice is going to bring the heat right out of the fruit. Simple red meat preparations with olive oil, garlic, and a little bit of salt might do wonders. I might also experiment with lightly caramelized onions or roasted peppers but anything too sweet might spoil the pairing, so don’t over do it.

If you can’t tell, I’m pretty fired up about this blend. I’ve been on the Priorat train for a while, but it’s this wine that has my running up front and shoveling coal into the furnace. I invite you to come join me—and if not, just dance, it’s gonna be okay.

$39.99 at http://www.anconaswine.com/sku01092.html