Chamard Vineyards Estate Reserve Chardonnay 2007
By Codey Foster
Sometimes at work I get patronized for so animatedly
supporting the Connecticut wine industry. And some of this critisizm is
justified and understandable. As a state, we sure do produce more than our fair
share of ordinary white hybrid blends (generally carrying a proprietary name
referencing some romantic/scenic image located, or that used to be located on
the vineyard property). And I hate to stereotype but sometimes stereotypes ring
true in real life situations and this might be one of those situations. I’m not
going to delve too deeply into my feelings on local wine, as I have before--but
as wine people, I think it’s an important thing for us to be thinking about. Of
course, I understand it’s a little easier to be thinking about local Chardonnay
when you live in the Cote de Beaune rather than the Cote de Fairfield—but
that’s a whole other conversation all together.
In any case, what I’m really getting at is that there are
some select gems produced in and around Connecticut and the Chamard Estate
Chardonnay is, for me, the first one that comes to mind.
For this particular bottling, I’m pretty sure they age 60%
in new and used French oak barrels, with the final 40% being finished in
stainless steel. I’m also fairly certain they use a touch of malolactic
fermentation although I’m having trouble finding the exact details online. And
while this bottling I generally explain as falling somewhere between New and
Old World in style—they also make a second Chardonnay that isn’t available at
the moment, but uses the exact inverse winemaking—that’s 40% French oak and 60%
stainless. This more Old World version is the finest Connecticut wine I have
ever tasted, and is a sure ringer for fine white Burgundy. Although, as I’ve found
out in the past couple of years—all great wines eventually disappear and we can
only hope that Chamard will decide to produce this elegant blend again (as I’m
sure they are capable of). But back to the 2007 Estate Reserve Chardonnay.
On the nose the 2007 Estate Reserve brings fourth an ample
balance of tree fruit, mineral, and subtle-sided oak that is neither
overwhelming to the wine’s primary flavors, nor cloying in a buttery
overoaked/over-malo’ed kind of way. Clean Chardonnay meets a pleasant oak framework—a
combination spawned from soils appropriately mid-way between Burgundy and the
California Coast.
On the palate it is surprisingly full bodied and robust.
Although its mineral and fruit is more Cote de Beaune—its structure is more
Maconais in style. Its French oak treatment is, once again, evident but not
overdone.
Thanks to its ‘somewhere inbetween style’, when it comes to
the dinner table (or picnic blanket), this Chamard Chard will be versatile
and food friendly. Because of its acidity it will meet fish/shellfish with ease
but as a result of its richness will also be able to stand up to more hearty
dishes and cream sauces.
Pick it up from us for $19.99
No comments:
Post a Comment