Wine Review: 2010 Tikal Patriota Malbec/Bonarda

Wine Review: 2010 Tikal Patriota Malbec/Bonarda

By Codey Foster

Sometimes on Saturday afternoons I find myself walking around the store trying to figure out what I’m going to drink that weekend. Often times Thor, our other ‘wine guy’ is right there with me, and as a result I end up taking a lot of his recommendations home. I have to admit, I’m never disappointed with the wines that he gives me but one thing is for sure, I always know what I’m getting—a big bold red with incredible concentration, dense fruit, and (typically) longevity. This wine is one of ‘Thor’s Picks’. And it is no exception.

Although in the past year I’ve found myself shying away from Malbec, I’ve tasted some impressive examples of its lesser-known Argentine counterpart, Bonarda. It should be noted that the Bonarda grown in Argentina is in fact a different grape than the Bonarda that you hear about in Italy, Bonarda Piedmontese. Argentine Bonarda, also called Charbono in California, is a late ripening red that originates from Savoie, and is like Bonarda Piedmontese only in name and color. This particular wine showcases 60% Malbec and 40% Bonarda and sees a year in both French and American oak.

At its center this wine shows an inky purply/black.

On the nose it gives off intense aromas of black fruit, asphalt, and a subtle underlying peppery aroma. As the wine opened it showed more dried fruit and on the second day some subtle red fruit qualities became evident as well.

On the palate 2010 Tikal is incredibly dense, shamelessly young, and spectacularly new world. Dense blackberry, cassis, and plumb harmonize on a well-structured frame to make a wine that is monstrous and rich.

There is however composure here somewhere. This wine’s extracted structure balances its extracted flavors to create a drinking experience that is muscular but intelligent and well suited for your most hearty gastronomical pursuits—and by that I mean that this wine was made for one pairing, and one pairing only—steak. Cook it how you want, but meatier, juicier cuts will prevail over delicate ones, as will well-done plates over more rare preparations. And feel free to drink it on its own of course, but do so knowing that you’re walking down a dark alley. It might make you feel small.

Serious bang for your buck.

$19.99 at http://www.anconaswine.com/sku02637.html