Wine Review: 2008 Pesquera Crianza

Wine Review: 2008 Pesquera Crianza
By Codey Foster

When it comes to iconic Ribera del Duero producers, there is Vega Sicilia—arguably the greatest producer in all of Spain—and then there is Pesquera, Vega’s triple-oaked 100% Tempranillo little sister that, despite her inherent beauty, has never been as great and will never be as great as her legendary older sister.

In contrast to Vega Sicilia that only produces a Grand Reserva, a NV Grand Reserva Especial, and a second wine—Pesquera makes a full range of wines from its most basic Crianza (that’s the one I’m reviewing here) all the way up to its Grand Reserva “Janus”. 

I say “triple-oaked” (a term I’ve coined all on my own), because Pesquera uses American, French, and Spanish Oak. Why? I don’t know. While the use of Spanish oak isn’t all that uncommon in Ribera del Duero, and neither are French/American combinations, this is the first triple stack I’ve heard of. I’d guess Pesquera would say that three different woods help to impart complexity, balance, and precise oxygenation into the wines. And the 2008 Crianza is indeed complex and balanced—so maybe they’re onto something.

In the glass the 2008 Pesquera shows dense and inky although its hue is much more red than purple.

On the nose it shows signs of funky earth, huge minerality, and dense red and black fruit coinciding among complex aromas of animal, and spice. Punctuation of dill and vanilla well compliment this wine’s rich aromatics—a brilliant framing as the result of its threefold oaking regimen.

On the palate this 2008 Crianza is bold and young. Its fruit is big and refined and its grip tremendous. Every element of structure comes together to build a wine that will live an undoubtedly long and healthy life. It will be thrilling to see what elegance this bottling unfolds over the next 8-12 years.

But don’t get me wrong. This wine is curiously accessible--and what a pleasure to indulge in!

As for pairing this wine, and Pesquera Crianza in general, look to hearty, well-done meats in its youth, and simpler, delicate preparations, as the wine gets older. Right now I think it would do well with a well-grilled NY strip steak with a reduced red/green pepper and onion combination. 5 years from now I might look to a basic salt, pepper, and garlic prepped fillet mignon, and ten years from now, a rosemary/olive oil rubbed pork tenderloin.

As far as purchasing this wine, well, there’s some bad news and some good news here.

The Bad News: I’ve just bought up and reviewed, as it might be, our very last bottle of the 2008 Pesquera Crianza.

The Great News: We’ve got an entire case of the 2009 Pesquera Crianza—a wine that is sure to shine. 2009, it turns out, was an even better vintage than 2008 and will ultimately compete with 2004 for the vintage of the decade in Ribera del Duero.

$39.99

http://www.anconaswine.com/sku02774.html#anchor_moreinfo