Wine Review: 2009 Niner Sauvignon Blanc

Wine Review: 2009 Niner Sauvignon Blanc

By Codey Foster

A year ago I would have told you that there is no such thing as stylistically oaked Sauvignon Blanc. I might have even told you that the best Sauvignon Blanc comes from the South Island of New Zealand. Well, I’ve come a long way since then.

I’ll never be one to call New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc one-dimensional but I will maintain that it is spectacularly distinct and consistent. No other wine has ever given blind tasters (including myself) so much satisfaction and I think there’s something to be said for that. A wine that can shout its name and birthplace bottling after bottling is something admirable all on its own. In any case, as with most facets of my wine drinking, my Sauvignon Blanc interests have turned French. Namely Sancerre and white Bordeaux. Although, I must admit, my Bordeaux Sauvignon infatuation is largely endowed to the body, texture, and dimensionality of Semillon, which after all isn’t Sauvignon Blanc. So for the integrity of Sauvignon Blanc I’m more invested in white Sancerre. I guess what I’m getting at is that Sancerre and the 2009 Niner Sauvignon Blanc share some resilient commonalities even if that’s not what I expected when I first approached this bottle.

As far as winemaking, the Niner Sauvignon Blanc is the offspring of a careful, cool fermentation and precision French oaking. Primary fermentation takes place in stainless steel with half of the wine being finished in new and used French oak barrels. It undergoes a mild Malolactic fermentation and is blended for balance and acidity.

In the glass the 9erSB shows a very subtle lemony gold.

On the nose, melon, lemony citrus notes, vanilla, apple, and pears resonate alongside slight mineral, and a touch of honey.

On the palate the Niner is medium-plus bodied, full-flavored, and balanced. Its roundness is well complemented by a vibrant acidity and this is where its similarities with Sancerre become apparent. So often California wines are malo’ed out of every last drop of acidity and are left tasting flat and dull. The Niner, in contrast, maintains both a creamy body and a brilliant acidity as do my favorite Sancerres. Its fruit is persistent even still, bringing crisp apple, lemon peal, and fresh pineapple into the forefront. This is how white wine should be made.

As for food pairings you’re options are nearly endless. Oak and Malolactic fermentation lend this Sauvignon Blanc to cream-based, richer dishes, however its acidity opens it up a handful of classic Sauvignon Blanc pairings. I know I’d appreciate it with some sashimi—especially fatty tuna, salmon, and squid and octopus.

This bottle was a little reminder as to what I love about white wine.

$19.99

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