OKTOBERFEST AT MITCH'S HOUSE

OKTOBERFEST AT MITCH’S HOUSE

By Codey Foster

Oktoberfest might typically beckon images of well-breasted maidens toting oversize beer mugs filled with Munich brew, but at Anconas it actually means ‘time to see how many gems we can clear off of the “Vintage Closeout” table--and drink them at Mitch’s house with Anconas staff and family’. That’s right. Mitch and Deb invited us all over to celebrate the season (first and foremost of course) and reap the benefits of “Vintage Closeout”. And the experience was, should we say, less than tedious.

Fact is, it is the “Vintage Closeout” table that hosts some of the store’s finest gems and inherent values. These are the wines that we loved at one time (and still do) and have acquired a few years of age (and been marked down, at that). That’s right—we’ve aged the wine for you AND we’re charging you less. In all seriousness though, it is a stellar little collection with some awesome small producers and wines and vintages that you won’t find anywhere else. I figured I’d highlight just a few of the wines that we enjoyed the night of the Oktoberfest party to give you an idea of what caliber bottles exist in this extraordinary realm of underpriced wines.

We started the evening off with A 2007 Demontille Auxey-Duresses, which turned out to be drinking incredibly vibrant, fresh, and full of well-rooted minerality and structure. If there was any doubt that a little bit of oak can give white Burgundy a little something extra, this wine is a cool and composed counterargument. Even Jen, who has a well know Chard prejudice said that this wine was well worth drinking.

To follow the White Burgundy, I opened up a couple half bottles of 2007 Vieux Lazaret White Chateauneuf-du-Pape—a wine that I though might be well past its heyday. Mostly Grenache Blanc with some Bourboulenc, Clairette, and a touch of barrel fermented Rousanne. Especially in half bottles white wines have a tendency to age rapidly. If you think about it, you’ve got half the amount of wine breathing through the same surface area as a full bottle of wine. The result is a wine that is substantially more developed than a 750mL its own age.  Although this ‘half-bottle effect’ definitely showed on the Lazaret it was definitely still alive and kicking. It manifested brilliant aromas of baked apple, honey, white flowers, fresh almonds, poached pineapple, and tart lemon candy. Hints of oxidation were just beginning to show, and although I wouldn’t hold this bottle any longer, its present drinking is righteous, developed, and indulgent.

The whites were followed by a 2006 Mary Edwards Pinot Noir and a 2006 Forey Nuit-st-George—two reds that performed well, ignited well-fought New World/Old World debates, and proved appropriate for the season and fall fare.

And then the 3 half bottles of 2003 Valdicava Brunello (a wine that we still have available). These three wines were structured, well starched, and proper--bringing fourth concentrated sweet kirsch, complex white truffle, and soft dusty tannins. I say “three wines” because after so many years in the bottle each wine has evolved just slightly from what it once was, and the bottle variations were apparent and enlightening. At this point I’d call the 2003 Valdicava (even the half bottle) just middle-aged, and I think it will continue to drink well for perhaps even another 8 years. I might even grab a couple bottles for my cellar.

After the Brunello it was our last bottle of the 2003 GV5 Gratavinum Priorat. A Cariena-based blend filled out with Grenache, Syrah, and Cab. This wine proved to be spectacularly seductive although decidedly primary and structured. I think it would have done best with another five years of cellaring although, that’s the problem with Priorats—you never know when to drink them. Every Priorat is different and from such a new and emerging wine region—it’s hard to determine their longevity without a track record. Needless to say it seemed everyone really enjoyed this particular bottle and were able to appreciate it even in its present state.

Finally, we’d rapped up the reds with a single bottle of the 2006 Termanthia from Numanthia. 100% Tinto del Toro (Tempranillo). We decanted this monster for a couple of hours, although, a couple of days might have been more appropriate. This wine is huge.  Dense. New World. And manifests major, spicy, new French Oak (I think Mitch said 200%). To draw comparisons this wine, I supposed would be akin to Rombauer Cabernet Sauvignon on steroids. Anyone who knows the Ancona Wine palates—not quite to our taste, but I can always appreciate when I wine makes me feel small, and this Tempranillo sure did. I’ll stick to my Lopez de Heredia Grand Reserva, although this bottling would be a spectacular treat for any California Cab drinker looking to expand their horizons and their palate.

The evening ended with a 2006 Inniskillin Vidal Ice Wine. It was indescribable and taught, but packed with tropical and rich unctuous fruits like apple, pineapple, poached pair, guava, passion fruit, kiwi, mango, and orange peel. Simply mouthwatering.

And while these gems are, for the most part, off the table—many others remain. Score yours in the Ridgefield store today, just past the wine cooler.