Sunday, September 23, 2012

Founders Oatmeal Breakfast Stout



Founders Oatmeal Breakfast; 100-Point Beverages and the Face of Perfection
By Codey Foster

I hate to be the one to do this—the beer/wine comparison but when I heard we had a 100-point beer in the house, I couldn’t resist. I’ve tasted 100-point wines so when I had a bottle of the Founders Breakfast Stout sitting in my fridge, well, I’m sure you understand the temptation.

Color: Jet-black with dark brown at its edges.

Aroma: toasty malt, diesel, tar, smoke, ash, soy, mineral, and just subtle hints of oatmeal.

Palate: Smoky and rich and over the top with tremendous flavor and balance.

Truth be told, this beer tastes like a picturesque winter night. And to drink this beer on a picturesque winter night by the fireplace with birch logs burning and snow falling, would indeed be perfect. In that context I can fully grasp this beer being a 100-pointer. However outside of that context, I find it to be more of a stimulating curiosity rather than a true testament of perfection.

I suppose that I should explain that my most vivid reference for a 100-point wine would be the 2007 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon (WA100)—a wine that I found to be just somewhat complex, spectacularly dense, and over the top with extraction. In that sense I think the Quilceda Creek and Founders have something in common. Granted, the Quilceda was tasted decades too young while the Founders is theoretically in a window of prime drinking--but the power, magnitude, and flavor concentration of these two beverages bares a stunning resemblance.

I realize that this is a spectacularly nearsighted comparison but I think perhaps there’s some kind of value to be gleaned from the examination of quality versus flavor concentration. Now it should be understood that density aside, neither of these 100-pointers are shabby drinks by any stretch. They are both well made and pleasurable, but I’m curious how much their sheer flavor concentration contributes to their scores. I guess what I’m trying to say is that I value complexity over amplitude and while both complex—neither of these beverages strike me as astonishingly complex nor perfectly complex (if there is such a thing).

Ultimately, would you prefer to be punched in the face or romanced by ethereal esters and aldehydes? Well, the choice is yours but I think the question is a great reminder that beverage criticism, scores, and the concept of ‘perfection’ need to be taken in context and even then with a grain of salt. And while the Founders and Quilceda offer just a minute cross section into the realm of 100-point beverages, I think you and I might both be surprised how far their themes resonate in the grand scheme of rated drink. For your sake, I won’t even touch on price correlation.

And yes. I drank it from a Riedel.

Founders Breakfast Stout--$10.49

Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2009--$219.99

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