Sunday, February 12, 2012

Wine Review: 2001 La Rioja Alta "Viña Ardanza" Reserva Especial Rioja



Wine Review: 2001 La Rioja Alta "Viña Ardanza" Reserva Especial Rioja
By Codey Foster

When I taste a great wine, I’m generally inclined to detail how individual and unique that particular wine is. And although I believe this wine is exceptional, it is not a ‘one-of-a-kind’ but instead a flawless representation of its kind. Don’t get me wrong; I think it’s special, but even more so I think it’s a flawless textbook example of Traditional Rioja.

To put the differences between modern and traditional Rioja into black and white is sometimes difficult, but more often than not traditional Rioja is grown at high altitudes, is generally lighter in body and color, more austere, earthy, and aged in 100% American oak. To the contrary, modern Rioja generally comes from lower altitude vineyards, is denser in color and body, riper, and generally aged in 100% French oak but sometimes in 50% French oak and 50% American if the modernist winemaker is feeling nostalgic. 

This particular specimen from Viña Ardanza was produced in a particularly fine Rioja vintage, 2001 (dubbed by some THE Rioja Vintage), and as a result the bodega has decided to label it with the designation ‘Reserve Especial’—a designation that it has released in only two other vintages: 1964 and 1973.

In the glass it shows off a deep majestic ruby with significant bricking around the rim.

On the nose this wine radiates beautiful dill-driven American Oak aromas followed by chewy red cherry, malt chocolate, and an underlying dried Earth characteristic that is well refined and complex. If mature Silver oak showcases American oak this beautifully, someone should let me know so I can start putting together a vertical tomorrow.

On the palate the Ardanza Reserve Especial is composed and structured. I wouldn’t say that it is tight by any stretch, but this wine still has a long road to travel, although it is also drinking quite well in present. Its soft tannins and very nice acidity help it to pair with almost any food rather seamlessly. I don’t think I’d be going out on a limb to say that it’s the most food-friendly non-Pinot that I’ve tasted this year.

And what else do I love about the Viña Ardanza Reserve Especial? It’s price. Ringing in at just 32.99, this might just be the only wine on the market over 10 years of age, this beautiful, and under $100. I’ll stack a few of these in my cellar for sure. The final challenge? Track down the ’64 and ’73.

As I said, $32.99 at Ancona’s Wines 

http://www.anconaswine.com/sku01885.html

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