Wine Review: 2001 La Rioja Alta "Viña Ardanza" Reserva
Especial Rioja
By Codey Foster
When I taste a great wine, I’m generally inclined to detail
how individual and unique that particular wine is. And although I believe this
wine is exceptional, it is not a ‘one-of-a-kind’ but instead a flawless
representation of its kind. Don’t get me wrong; I think it’s special, but even
more so I think it’s a flawless textbook example of Traditional Rioja.
To put the differences between modern and traditional Rioja
into black and white is sometimes difficult, but more often than not
traditional Rioja is grown at high altitudes, is generally lighter in body and
color, more austere, earthy, and aged in 100% American oak. To the contrary,
modern Rioja generally comes from lower altitude vineyards, is denser in color
and body, riper, and generally aged in 100% French oak but sometimes in 50%
French oak and 50% American if the modernist winemaker is feeling
nostalgic.
This particular specimen from Viña Ardanza was produced in a
particularly fine Rioja vintage, 2001 (dubbed by some THE Rioja Vintage), and
as a result the bodega has decided to label it with the designation ‘Reserve
Especial’—a designation that it has released in only two other vintages: 1964
and 1973.
In the glass it shows off a deep majestic ruby with
significant bricking around the rim.
On the nose this wine radiates beautiful dill-driven
American Oak aromas followed by chewy red cherry, malt chocolate, and an
underlying dried Earth characteristic that is well refined and complex. If
mature Silver oak showcases American oak this beautifully, someone should let
me know so I can start putting together a vertical tomorrow.
On the palate the Ardanza Reserve Especial is composed and
structured. I wouldn’t say that it is tight by any stretch, but this wine still
has a long road to travel, although it is also drinking quite well in present.
Its soft tannins and very nice acidity help it to pair with almost any food
rather seamlessly. I don’t think I’d be going out on a limb to say that it’s
the most food-friendly non-Pinot that I’ve tasted this year.
And what else do I love about the Viña Ardanza Reserve
Especial? It’s price. Ringing in at just 32.99, this might just be the only
wine on the market over 10 years of age, this beautiful, and under $100. I’ll
stack a few of these in my cellar for sure. The final challenge? Track down the
’64 and ’73.
As I said, $32.99 at Ancona’s Wines
http://www.anconaswine.com/sku01885.html
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